By Bernardy Lighting • June 2026
Choosing the right outdoor lighting depends on what you want to achieve — and there are enough options on the market now that the answer isn’t always obvious. This guide covers the key decisions every DFW homeowner faces: LED vs. halogen, which fixture type to use for which application, how to pick the right color temperature, and whether to invest in a smart transformer. By the end, you’ll know exactly what type of lighting is best for your specific situation.
LED vs. Halogen: There’s a Clear Winner
If you’re installing a new system or replacing an existing one, use LED. Full stop. The comparison isn’t really competitive anymore:
- Lifespan: LED: 25,000–50,000 hours. Halogen: 2,000–4,000 hours.
- Efficiency: LED uses 75–80% less energy for equivalent light output.
- Heat: Halogen fixtures run hot — a serious concern in DFW summers where ambient heat already stresses electrical components. LED runs cool.
- Maintenance: With halogen, you’re replacing bulbs regularly. With LED integrated fixtures, there’s nothing to replace for long-term service.
- Light quality: Modern LED has excellent color rendering (CRI 90+) and is available in exactly the color temperatures that work best for residential applications.
The only reason anyone still runs halogen outdoor lighting is that they have an existing system they haven’t gotten around to upgrading. If that’s you, a halogen-to-LED conversion is one of the highest-ROI changes you can make to your home in terms of energy savings and reduced maintenance.
Fixture Types by Use Case
Spike Fixtures (Uplights) — For Trees, Shrubs, and Focal Points
Ground-mounted spike fixtures are the workhorses of landscape lighting. They drive into the soil and angle upward to illuminate trees, large shrubs, architectural features, or accent stones. Look for solid brass or marine-grade aluminum construction — spike fixtures in DFW get hot in summer and wet in spring; cheap zinc or plastic fails within a couple of years. Most residential applications need 3–7 watt fixtures; larger trees may need 7–12 watts. Adjustable-head versions give you flexibility to reposition as plants grow.
Recessed Soffit Fixtures (Downlights) — For Eaves and Overhangs
Core-drilled soffit fixtures are mounted flush into your home’s eave or soffit, aimed downward to wash the front facade with light. The core-drilled installation is more involved than surface mounting — we drill through the soffit material, recess the fixture housing, and route wire back through the soffit cavity — but the result is clean, professional, and completely surface-hardware-free. These are the most commonly requested fixture type for DFW homes with brick or stone facades, where the interplay of warm light on textured masonry creates a stunning effect at night.
Path Lights — For Walkways and Driveways
Path lights are low-profile fixtures on stakes, spaced along walkways or driveway edges to light the surface without blinding anyone walking the path. The best residential path lights have a shrouded or louvered design that directs light downward rather than outward — you see the lit surface, not the fixture glare. Spacing of 8–10 feet typically gives even illumination without the over-lit runway look. Bollard-style path lights (taller, more statement-making) work well for formal entry approaches; low-mushroom head styles work well in naturalistic garden settings.
Wall-Mount and Sconce Fixtures — For Entry Doors and Garage
These connect to your home’s 120V electrical system (not low-voltage) and are the standard fixtures flanking entry doors and garage doors. When upgrading these, match the style to your home’s architectural language — modern black fixtures for contemporary homes, oil-rubbed bronze or cast iron for traditional styles. Use LED A-lamps or integrated LED fixtures rated for enclosed outdoor use. Replace any remaining incandescent or CFL fixtures in these locations — they’re inefficient and the color rendering is poor compared to modern LED.
String Lights — For Patios and Pergolas
Commercial-grade outdoor string lights have become a genuine architectural element in backyard design. Use IP65-rated LED globe or Edison-style strings, not the cheap indoor/outdoor strands from big-box stores that fail after one DFW summer. Properly installed string lights on a cable or hook system create an overhead ambient canopy that transforms an outdoor dining or entertaining space. Wire these into your landscape lighting transformer for consistent automation with the rest of your system.
Color Temperature Guide: What Number Should You Choose?
Color temperature is measured in Kelvin (K). For residential outdoor lighting, the choice matters significantly:
- 2700K (Warm White) — This is our strong recommendation for all DFW residential outdoor lighting. It’s flattering, warm, and makes brick, stone, and wood look rich. It complements the green of landscape plants without washing them out. It looks intentional and elegant, not clinical.
- 3000K — Slightly crisper than 2700K. Fine for modern homes with clean architectural lines, but we still prefer 2700K for most applications.
- 4000K+ (Cool White/Daylight) — Avoid for residential landscape and facade lighting. It reads as commercial, harsh, and “budget” — like a parking garage. Reserve 4000K for security/floodlighting where visual clarity matters more than aesthetics.
Smart vs. Standard Transformers
A smart transformer connects to your Wi-Fi and allows app-based scheduling, app-based scheduling and compatible features that depend on the selected system that automatically track sunset/sunrise for your specific location. A standard transformer uses a manual timer you set twice a year. Compatible new systems can include smart timing controls when specified in the project scope. Available controls and pricing depend on the selected system. The only scenario where a standard transformer makes sense is if you’re upgrading an old system on a tight budget and want to keep the existing transformer hardware.
Frequently Asked Questions
What voltage is best for outdoor landscape lighting — 12V or line voltage?
For landscape lighting (uplights, path lights, soffit fixtures), 12V low-voltage systems are the standard and the right choice. They’re safer to install and troubleshoot, use a transformer that plugs into a standard outlet, and give you much more design flexibility. Line voltage (120V) is used for wall-mounted fixtures at entry doors and garages — those are generally not part of a landscape lighting project and require a licensed electrician.
Can I mix fixture brands in the same system?
Technically yes, since all 12V low-voltage fixtures work on the same basic standard. In practice, we recommend sticking to one or two fixture brands for a given system because color temperature consistency varies slightly between manufacturers even at the “same” Kelvin rating, and mixing can result in visible differences in light color across your yard. We source fixtures from the same manufacturer for each project to ensure visual consistency.
How do I know what wattage transformer I need?
Add up the total wattage of all your fixtures, then multiply by 1.25 to build in headroom for future additions and to avoid running the transformer at 100% capacity (which shortens its life). For example: 10 fixtures at 3 watts each = 30 watts × 1.25 = 37.5 watts minimum. A 150-watt transformer gives you plenty of room to expand. We always size transformers generously at Bernardy Lighting — a transformer running at 50% capacity runs cooler and lasts longer than one running at 90%.
Ready to upgrade your outdoor lighting?
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