By Bernardy Lighting • June 2026
Outdoor lighting in DFW faces a punishing combination of environmental challenges: summer temperatures above 100°F for extended periods, sudden and intense rain storms, humidity swings between wet and dry seasons, and UV radiation intense enough to degrade plastic fixtures in a short period. Proper waterproofing is the difference between a lighting system that runs flawlessly for 15 years and one that requires constant repairs. This guide covers IP ratings, what to look for when buying fixtures, how to seal connections correctly, and when a fixture is past saving.
Understanding IP Ratings
IP (Ingress Protection) ratings are the international standard for how well a fixture resists dust and water intrusion. The format is IP followed by two digits. The first digit is dust protection (0–6); the second is water protection (0–9). For outdoor lighting, focus on the second digit:
- IP65 — Protected against water jets from any direction. Suitable for most outdoor applications: wall-mounted fixtures, path lights, uplights in landscape beds. This is the minimum for any outdoor lighting fixture in DFW.
- IP67 — Can be submerged up to 1 meter for 30 minutes. Required for fixtures in areas prone to standing water, near pool decks, or in low spots that flood during heavy rain.
- IP68 — Continuous submersion. Required for actual underwater use — pool lights, fountain submersibles, water feature lighting. This is a specialty rating and these fixtures cost more, but they’re the only appropriate choice for in-water applications.
When we spec fixtures for installs near Lewisville Lake or in flood-prone DFW neighborhoods, we default to IP67 even in areas that won’t typically be submerged — because “won’t typically” still gets tested by a Texas gully-washer once or twice a year.
What to Look for When Buying Fixtures
Beyond IP rating, look for:
- Brass or aluminum housing: Brass is the gold standard for low-voltage spike fixtures — it develops a natural patina but doesn’t corrode structurally. Marine-grade aluminum is also excellent. Avoid zinc alloy (often labeled “die-cast metal”) and plastic — both fail in DFW conditions within 2–4 years.
- Tempered glass lens: Polycarbonate lenses yellow and cloud over 3–7 years depending upon package selection in Texas UV. Tempered glass stays clear indefinitely.
- Sealed LED module: Integrated LED fixtures with sealed optical assemblies have no point of moisture ingress at the light source. Fixtures that use replaceable bulb sockets have a potential failure point at the socket where moisture can infiltrate.
- UV-rated wire insulation: If any wire runs above ground (along fence posts, behind downspouts, etc.), it needs UV-rated insulation. Sunlight-exposed standard PVC insulation cracks within 2–3 years in DFW.
How to Seal Connections Correctly
Wire connections are the most common point of water infiltration and corrosion failure in outdoor lighting systems. Even IP65-rated fixtures fail when their connection to the wire isn’t properly sealed. Here’s the right approach:
- Use direct-burial waterproof connectors: The gel-filled twist connectors sold at big-box stores work fine when installed correctly. The key is that the wire fully seats into the gel and the cap is tightly closed. “Half-in” connections are your enemy.
- Self-amalgamating (self-fusing) tape: For any above-ground connection or splice, wrap with self-amalgamating tape, not standard electrical tape. Standard tape unwraps in heat and moisture within 1–2 seasons. Self-amalgamating tape bonds to itself and creates a watertight seal that lasts years.
- Silicone sealant at fixture bases: Where a fixture base meets a hard surface (stone, concrete, hardscape), a thin bead of exterior silicone prevents water pooling at the mount point.
- Elevate transformer knockouts: Make sure transformer entry points are sealed with appropriate bushings. Any gap between wire and knockout is a point for water and insects to enter the transformer housing.
Texas Heat and Rain Considerations
DFW’s climate creates specific outdoor lighting challenges you won’t find in many other markets. Summer heat accelerates every type of material degradation — wire insulation, plastic fixture bodies, rubber gaskets, and sealed connector gels all age faster under sustained 100°F+ conditions. We’ve seen fixtures rated for “outdoor use” by major brands fail within 3 years in DFW that would last 10+ years in a milder climate. Fixture recommendations are based on documented specifications and suitability for North Texas conditions. The fall and winter rain events, while less frequent than other parts of Texas, are often sudden and heavy — crawling under the eave of a home during a spring thunderstorm and seeing fixture connections that have been sitting in 2 inches of standing water explains a lot of system failures we diagnose.
When Fixtures Need Replacing vs. Resealing
Not every failing fixture needs to be replaced. Signs that a fixture can be rescued with resealing or connection repair: wire connection is corroded but fixture housing is intact, fixture output is dim due to corroded contacts (not failed LED), gasket is compressed but housing seal is otherwise good. Signs a fixture needs to be replaced: housing is cracked or the lens is cloudy/yellowed, LED module has water damage internally, spike or mount hardware has structurally corroded, fixture has been run over by a lawn mower (happens more than you’d think). As a general rule, if a fixture is more than 8–10 years old and failing, replacement is more cost-effective than repair — especially since new LED fixtures will be significantly more efficient and brighter than their older equivalents.
Frequently Asked Questions
My fixture stopped working after heavy rain. Is it ruined?
Not necessarily. First, check the transformer GFCI reset button — a hard rain can trip a GFCI that protects the circuit. Reset it and see if the fixture comes back. If not, check the wire connection at the fixture — water infiltration at that connection can cause a short that blows the transformer fuse. Clean and reseal the connection and check the fuse before assuming the fixture is dead.
Is it worth waterproofing existing older fixtures or should I replace them?
If your fixtures are halogen, we’d almost always recommend replacing with LED at the same time — the energy and maintenance savings pay for the upgrade quickly. If they’re LED but the seals are deteriorating, resealing is worth doing on quality fixtures but not on cheap plastic ones where the housing itself is the failing component.
Can I use indoor-rated fixtures outside if I protect them from direct rain?
We don’t recommend it in DFW. Even covered porch fixtures get exposed to high humidity, temperature swings, insects, and indirect water spray. Indoor-rated fixtures aren’t built with sealed electrical components or corrosion-resistant housings. The cost difference between indoor and outdoor rated fixtures isn’t significant enough to justify the risk of electrical failure or short circuit from an improperly rated fixture.
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